![]() ![]() Maybe the times on the manual are too short?Īs for the agitation. A little better I guess, but still washed out in my opinion. I did a test roll and this is the result. Just remember to do enough agitation (flip Paterson tank upside down and back) and I think you'll be fine. You didn't mention how frequently you agitated. Within a few hours, I leave for the holidays in one of the most beautiful places in Italy and the world !!! >Ĭdn./files/404/foto/5070_appartamento_cortina_.įrom there follow the results of your development ! /) I'll shoot a test roll and report back tomorrow! Thanks a lot! The manual comes for times at 25, 38 and 45C, so that's no problem. Repeat for all six minutes (6 times to empty). At the end of each minute to empty the tank and replace it under the tap. Is not my first language either :P, the important thing is that we understand each other.ġ0) tank under the tap running with water that goes down to 30-40 ° C directly into the tank for 6 min. And then I pour the stabilizer into the tank? On step 10 you just pour hot tap water directly into the tank and pour it repeatedly. So I assumed I wad to pour the water into the tank. At the prewarming it just says 4 min - 38C. The manual that came with the kit, just shows a chart with the times and temperatures. Good luck (and sorry for my english) !! /) The most important thing for the color development is not at what temperature (30 - 35 - 38 ☌ etc) but keep it as constant as possible, for the proper time, especially for the development, other chemicals are more tolerant. I repeat, this is my procedure at 30 ° C with Tetenal kit see if compatible with Rollei kit. Pay attention, fine PET bottles transfers heat in a few minutes !!!Ħ) control/await when the chemistry (and the water) of this sink is at 30.5 ° Cħ) start the process !! Development (8min) with regular rotation by means pivot.Ĩ) stop-bath same chemical used for the b/w (30 sec).ĩ) blix-fix with regular rotation by means pivot (6min).ġ0) washing with running water from the tap (30/40☌, for 6min) by flushing the tank every minute.ġ1) stab 1min with regular rotation by means pivot. My procedure (Tetenal Colortec) 30 ☌ with two sinks !ġ) put very hot water (50/60 ☌) in a sink.Ģ) put water (32/33 ☌) in the other sinkģ) put chemicals (develop, stop, blix/fix and stab) in adequate amounts, in thin PET bottles to which you neck cut put in sink 50/60 ☌Ĥ) put the tank in other sink (32/33 ☌) with a weight on top, otherwise it floats !!ĥ) when the chemicals are approximately 30 ☌, transfer in the other sink I just use a patterson tank, no fancy equipment.įrom what I gathered so far, I don't have to wash it beforehand, just warm it up, right? The manual that came with it doesn't specify it.Īlso, after the blix can I remove the film and wash it and use the stabilizer outside? Is there anything else I'm doing wrong? :S They all poured the water inside the tank before the developer. I'm a total newb you know! I have no previous experience developing film, so I followed some youtube tutorials, as well a some blogs. HolmisticWalker edited this topic 80 months ago. ![]() +15 seconds or however long it takes you to pour developer in the tank. Why wouldn't you wash the film in running water but instead used standing water before stabilizer?Īlso, remember to add pour time in development time, ie. Soaking in water before developer only dilutes your developer. Your photos look underdeveloped and possibly underfixed, that's why they are almost transparent. I just developed yesterday Kodak Color Plus 200 !!! In Tetenal Kit. I would also do the stop with acetic acid, among the development and blix/fix.Īlso the Tetenal kit does not provide the water in the tank for the pre-bath, but the heating of the tank for 5 minutes. If the rollei kit provides this, I would do a test. I do not know Rollei kit use Tetenal Colortec, providing for the development also 30 ☌. What equipment did you use for development? (a water bath, Jobo, or.) Inetjoker (a group admin) edited this topic 61 months ago. Originally posted at 1:57PM, 18 August 2016 PDT Import to lightroom and edit in photoshop with Colorperfecr plugin Pour stabilizer in the tank for 1 minute at room temperature Fill the tank with water for 4 minutes at 38C I searched online and didn't find anything. I tried different scanning software as well. I thought it was a temperature issue, so I bought a new thermometer and still getting the same results. I've tried to develop a few rolls of Kodak Color Plus 200 with the Rollei Colorchem Kit, and I keep getting washed out colors and poor contrast. ![]()
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